Use the balance shaft itself just flip it around. It is the perfect tool for the job. Thanks a lot guys, used a 32mm socket to push it out. Now just trying to figure out how to get the bearing to stay there while I hammer it in. I used a magnet to hold it in place and tapped it very lightly until I got it started. I taped it together with painters tape, just press the tape lightly so you can pull the socket off.
Okay, Was thinking the same thing as vision, but wanted to see if anyone else had some good ideas. And point the oiling holes away from the crank on both? Well, tried punching the new bearing in, but it came apart at the connection its got on it. Should I pick up a bunch of them and keep trying? Or is there a trick to getting them in as well? Thanks again for all the help! Or actually, could I leave the inner bearing out and just plug the timing belt side one? Or would it have too much an effect on my oil pressure?
Last edited: May 4, Any ideas on this? So close to getting her back on the road. You just have to try and get the bearing to be as straight as possible when inserting it.
If its on a slight angle it will catch and get destroyed. This happened on my first attempt so I just reused the bearing I took out for the second try. You must log in or register to reply here.
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Join the Community! Chat with others, create a build thread, post questions and answers. Get involved! Logging in will also remove many of the advertisements, along with this notice. Login now! You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. For those that need help with balance shaft bearings. Thread starter halffast1g Start date Aug 5, This thread is for the people who are doing a balance shaft removal and are having difficulty getting the balance shaft bearings back into place to block the oiling holes I would first like to state that I did the balance shaft removal, but I left the shaft in not the one that was connected to the oil pump, ya the other one.
I was told that the shaft would block the oil flow, but it did not. My car leaked like a mother er from the front case. So I went back and dropped the engine down a bit, removed the balance shaft, then punched the bearings out, no problemo. I used a socket the size of the balance shaft bearing connected to an extension to tap the bearings out yes I needed to use a hammer OK, well I go to turn the stock bearings degrees and punch them back in.
I try to stick my hand in the block and line the rear most bearing the one with the smaller diameter back into place, then tapped away with the socket. It must have been misaligned so the bearing split. The stock bearings are a split 2 piece design. I ordered up a set of new bearings from Parts Dinosaur which includes 3 bearings 2 replacements bearings for the rear smaller diameter bearings and 1 replacement bearing for the front larger diameter bearing, all of which are 1 piece!
I ended up bending the first rear don't forget, smaller diameter bearing again due to misalignment. Now trying with the second bearing I reversed the balance shaft and used it to drive the bearing into place. Not so fast, I bent up another one.
I reorder the 1 piece bearings from parts dinosaur, but in the meantime I construct a bearing driver from a rented autozone bearing driver kit which is not long enough to get to the rear balance shaft bearing , the original balance shaft, a socket just slightly smaller than the balance shaft bearing itself, a m8 x 1. It consists of everything I listed and out of the bearing driver kit I used the No.
You must be logged in to view this image or video. Last edited: Aug 9, Sort by date Sort by votes. Thanks for the info. I will have to try that when I do mine. Upvote 0. Once you get the parts off and are looking at the bottom of your block, it is very easy to do this procedure. The hardest part is getting the new bearings in. It will take lots of pounding to get them all the way in, but a very good mod to do. George, Utah.
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